Unlocking authenticity: a focus on native grapes
Diversity in the vineyard is a focus for any viticulturist with their eye on the future: a move away from clones, a move towards massale selection and a growing interest in field-blends are just some considerations being explored by the wine industry as ways to adapt to climate change. Combine that with a lethargy from wine enthusiasts towards the tried-and-tasted and we have the perfect storm for native grape varieties to finally have their moment.
Karin Rockstad, a wine educator, editor and self confessed native-grape-geek brings us up to speed on two lesser-known grapes we should all have on our radar.
There are upwards of 10,000 grape varieties around the world and maybe a thousand in commercial use. The International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) says that only 13 make up one-third of the planet’s total vineyard area. One-third! There are several reasons why, but that’s for another article. I’d like to focus on the other 987. Well, just two of those: one from a famous wine region and one from a not-so-famous region. Native grapes are everywhere, but most have been overlooked. With so much diversity, there is a smorgasbord of wines on the market made from indigenous grapes and each one tells a story about where it’s from.
First up is from the famed DOCa Rioja region of Spain. You already know that Rioja makes world-class wines from Tempranillo (yes, it’s native too), but have you tried Maturana Tinta de Navarrete? This grape is nothing like its neighbour. It makes an inky, purple, almost black wine with soft tannins and a round, smooth, velvety mouthfeel. Compare that to a ruby, red cherry, strawberry-scented Tempranillo. One has nothing to do with the other, and Bodegas Martínez Alesanco even named their bottling exactly that (Nada que Ver). The vines are planted on ferrous-clay soils at high elevation on land that has been cared for by the family for generations.
There is uncertainty about Maturana Tinta’s name and origin because of various synonyms. Some sources equate it to Trousseau or Bastardo or link it to Castets. This Maturana is from Navarrete, a small town outside of Logroño.
Elena Corzana harvests her Maturana Tinta (Credit: Elena Corzana)
Elena Corzana grew up in Navarrete. She has worked all over the world but has gone back to her hometown to make her own wines. Her Maturana Tinta 2021 is fermented in amphorae made from the red clay near the village. Some of the wine is aged a bit in oak and then blended. She believes the clay “refreshes” the wine, making it delicate.
Spain is making a concerted effort to recover and promote indigenous varieties. This not only helps cope with climate change by growing grapes that are suited to a specific terroir, but adds to biodiversity and combats monoculture, where disease and pests can run rampant. There is also a shift in mindset; the dominant grape doesn’t have to be the only game in town. Producers are proud of what they grow, and what their ancestors grew, in their local areas and are excited to share that.
The second grape is from not-so-famous Colli Bolognesi DOC. The city of Bologna, Italy is legendary for its food, but the wine made in the surrounding hills may not be the first thing consumers think of. This is the home of Negretto.
The grape is also locally called Negrettino and has been confused with Uva Loganesi and Négrette. Its parentage is unknown, but it is only planted in the Emilia-Romagna region. After phylloxera struck in the late 19th century, a lot of Negretto was planted because of its increased disease resistance. It was not often a single varietal wine but used as a blending partner or for bulk wine because of its blue-black color, hence its name.
Negretto grapes (Credit: Regione Emilia-Romagna)
Negretto began to decline in the 1960s when industrialisation and international varieties started trending in viticulture and it was nearly extinct until a few dedicated growers revived it. There are only about 75 ha planted today. It can be found in blends with Sangiovese and/or Barbera and as a single varietal. The wine tastes of red berries, black cherry, herbs, and balsam with a tannic bite.
Antonio Ognibene, of Gradizzolo, was one of the producers who helped rescue Negretto from oblivion. The winery’s Naigartèn 2021 is made in stainless steel and cement tanks, ferments with native yeasts, and is unfiltered. This is a bold and structured wine, which pairs well with the delicious salumi and meat-based pasta dishes that are so typical of the area.
Orsi Vigneto San Vito’s Posca Rossa is a fascinating creation. It’s a non-vintage blend of Negretto, Barbera, and a few other grapes from different plots, all made biodynamically in different vessels that are topped up with young wine each year. The wine is savory, earthy, and full of black fruit. A posca was the daily ration of wine given to Roman soldiers in ancient times, and just like then, this wine is meant to be on your table every day.
Intrigued? In addition to Spain and Italy, Croatia, Portugal, Cyprus, Greece, and Georgia have an abundance of native varieties that are well worth discovering. The two presented here are just a start—only 985 more to go!
Karin Rockstad is a wine educator and co-owner of Vine Lab Wine & Spirits Academy in Minnesota, USA. She is a translator and editor, helping the wine industry showcase its content in English.
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